Heeng, Asafoetida

Spice no. 17 

Heeng! is a beloved spice in the Indian household. We don't grow the plants which are from the parsley family and leaves look similar to fennel leaves and Dill. I cannot imagine my life without asafoetida as children we grow up hating the sulphuric smell but learn to appreciate the benefits in our tadka. Eating Dal  everyday without heeng would have caused bloating. In the scenario of limited access to water and unclean habits prevalent across India asafetida was always kept aside in the kitchen as an antidote to indigestion. 

Strange that this clump like thing sold in tiny cubes or rocks are light to hand. This makes one wonder what it is? Well it is the sap that comes out of the the rhizomes and solidifies into brown lumps. A 4-5 year old tree of the Ferula asafeotida having a decent sized tap root is ideal, the rhizome are exposed and slashed to let the sap ooze out and form the resin lumps. The fresh resin smells very strongly sulphurous. This is exactly what is desired flavouring in our Indian food. The best quality comes from Iran and Afghanistan. Lahaul valley in Himachal is now being used for cultivation. One single plant gives only 500 gms of Heeng hence the cultivation and production makes it an expensive spice. Since Heeng is very strong in flavour and aroma it needs to be used with care and hence commercially it is sold as compound with wheat or rice in the form of powder. This compound also make asafoetida economical for home use.

While most spices came via the sea brought by the Merchant ships asafoetida is credit to be brought to Indian via land over the Hindu Kush mountains by the army of Alexandar. 

We have now reached the end of the Masala trail. We have gathered all the spices that are desired and now let us make Koli masala with these. Yes all these 17 spices are included in my community's masala including Agri and East Indian bottle Masala. Our masalas are similar with slight variation and preferences from family to family. 

After grinding the masala and filling the jars and bottles don't forget to drop a small lump of heeng. The Masala has to last a year on the shelf!

ShahJeera, Caraway Seeds

Spice no. 16 

ShahJeera by the name you might feel we have jeera then what is this Shahjeera why is it used in a blend that has jeera already? To add to the confusion the name causes they even look similar but they are not the same. Look close Jeera is lighter brown where as Shah jeera is darker in color. The seeds when held closer will reveal that Shahjeera is a delicate slightly curved seed. This gives it the biological name Carum curvi. Whereas Jeera is Cuminum cyminum.

Jeera or Cumin as we know imparts a very strong flavour and aroma for more subtle uses Shahjeera is prefered choice. Shahjeera is used in Mughlai dishes and Persian influenced cuisine in India. This Shahjeera is cultivated in Middle Eastern countries and Europe. Finland alone grows 25 % of the worlds Caraway seeds. These are used in Germany, France and Russia to flavour breads, casseroles and desserts too. 

In India however the use is limited to savouries and pickling. It is tastes similar to licorice and feels like a cross of cumin and fennel. It works as a carminative and hence important in folk medicine.

Shahjeera grows wild in the upper north region of India like Leh and Kashmir.

JASHN e DASTAAN e MUMBAI 18-20 Dec2020

The Mumbai Research Centre is pleased to announce that its three day festival Jashn e Dastaan e Mumbai starting TODAY will now be free for all citizens. We have received generous sponsorship and that has made it possible for us to remove the paywall.

We are thankful to our sponsors and ready to welcome all Mumbaikars to the festival of the stories of the city. Respective Zoom links for the three days are attached alongside. Voluntary contributions towars conservation and digitization of the library will be highly appreciated.

18 December — https://us02web.zoom.us/j/85068219267...

19 December — https://us02web.zoom.us/j/86830188456...

20 December — https://us02web.zoom.us/j/86517781780...

Lavang, Ruang, Krambu, Cloves

Spice no. 15 

Lavang in Marathi and sonically variant names in others states. In English Cloves, which traces the origin of the name to nail. It does look like one and it has fascinated the whole world with this shape and everyone fell short of creativity, so all names refer to the nail. Well if the shape was so fascinating so were the properties of this spice. Its ayurvedic properties as an anti-bacterial, anti-septic, anti-fungal and analgesic makes is much sought after across the world.

Cloves are synonymous as tooth ache reliever. Since ancient times mothers have told their children to hold a clove on to the tooth that is aching. Cloves have  a very high concentration of essential oil in it. While a whole clove is ok to be used. Clove oil if used directly can give a burn it is therefore always used diluted with other oils and the quantities used are tiny. Cloves in India and China have always been used as mouth freshner in royal courts. In India one of the components of paan is clove. It has many poetic references too in our literature. 

Yet again this spice is not native to India but comes from the island of Maluku. The sweet smell of this spice growing in the islands attracted seafaring traders. Yet again it was the Arabs and then the Europeans that were attracted to this region. The Dutch controlled this spice for long time just like they did the nutmeg. In a  sad turn of fate Maluku lost its top producer title to the Mozambique islands and now it is Mozambique that exports cloves to Indonesia for the manufacturing of clove flavored cigarettes that their population is addicted to. 

Clove tree is an evergreen tree and the spice that we see is the flower bud. Picking cloves is fascinating and high skilled. The flower buds goes through color changes from pale yellow, pink to bright red when ready to be plucked and only the red ones is the bunch have to be plucked for best quality. 

Cloves are considered heat causing spice and therefore a component of garam masala. The fragrance of the spice and its tenderizing property sees its use in meat preparations. I have also seen cloves used as an aromatic spice in desserts especially in the South. Bengal has a dedicated sweet to this spice the Labango latika, a type of khaja with the clove nailed into it!

Tamal patra, Tej Patta, Karuvaela, Birinji Ilai, Indian Bay leaf

Spice no. 14

Tamal Patra is a Sanskrit name of the fragrant leaf derived from the Cinnamomum species. In English is called Indian bay leaf and that causes confusion. Both are different species. Tamal Patra is reminiscent of Cinnamon and clove while Bay leaf which is botanically Laurus nobilis is pine like with bitter notes. This happened due to the colonizers rediscovering these spices and naming them as spices they knew from old records. 

Bay leaf is found in Sikkim and north east area and the Himalayan region of Nepal and parts Burma. However is is collected from wild trees than systematically grown trees. Hence the quality is random. 

Tamal patra is associated in a big way with garam masala and therefore meat. No wonder that it features so much in Mughal culinary whether it is the biryani, qorma or the pulaos. The Bengali, Mithila and North and North Eastern used these leaves since ever but the West of India was introduced to it only recently. 

Tej patta while it is popular as a spice it is extremely popular as a perfume. So a large percentage of the world's production of Tej patta is used for perfumery.

Yet again we know that Mumbai's strategic location as a port is what made spices available in this region.

Badian, Chakraphool, Anashuppu, Takkolam, Star Anise

Spice no. 13

Star anise is the prettiest of all spices. A favorite of the food-stylists. The spice is a dried fruit with 7-8 pronged shape. Each of those petal like shapes has a smooth seed. The whole fruit is used in flavouring alcohol like mulling wine. The flavour of star anise is similar to fennel and therefore used to substitute its flavour many times. 

Star anise acts as a tenderizer for meats hence used mostly in non vegetarian dishes. Star anise is rich in Shikimic acid and therefore 90% of it is used to extract it. This shikimic acid is the base ingredient for making the anti influenza drug Tamiflu.

This species of Illicium Verum is grown in North East Vietnam and South West China. It has a very limited cultivation in Arunachal pradesh. This spice is popular across the world and via spice trade has landed in use in Mumbai and Koli cuisine. Since it is used in powder form and never whole in curries it adds to the body of flavours.

Nagkesar, Cobra Saffron

Spice no. 12

Nagkesar or Cobra Saffron is a strange name but indispensable in Ayurveda due to its large range of use in ailments related to the gut such as vomiting, fever, migraines and even urinary tract infections. It is an important component of Chyavanprash. Strangely it is a very popular ornamental evergreen tree in Srilanka and is therefor also the national tree.

Nagkesar is ground along with other spices to get blends but never used singularly. The Nagkesar tree is commonly found across South East Asia and is used in local medicine beside the hard word is also sought after.

The taste of Nagkesar is like all spice. It is not to be confused with tailed pepper or Kabab chini which looks similar but varies in flavor.

Masala Velchi, Badi Elaichi, Doda. Black Cardamom

Spice no. 11

My first introduction to Masala velchi was when my mother bought a packet of whole garam masala for making biryani. Biryani is not a Koli dish at all not even a fish Biryani but certainly it is from our Koli-Arab neighbor's repertoire who are known as Konkani muslims. I recollect due to this Velchi being so huge my mother always used a potli to tie the masalas. The resultant Biryani was mildly fragrant and it never got shunned. Masala Velchi has a truly notorious reputation of overpowering the flavours and unappealing physical appearance too. It is overpowering as it is very smoky due to the drying process that blackens and lends smokiness to the spice. It is dried in chambers of woodfire for long hours over days. This Badi elaichi is grown only in Sikkim in India. Sikkim however does never use it in its traditional cuisine. The spice is traded by Marwaris and so no wonder that Rajasthani cuisine uses it liberally and calls it lovingly Doda. This spice however has an association with meats and hence rarely will you find it used in Sattavik food. 

For the Sweets and Sattavik food it is the green Cardamom and even though they belong to the same Zingiber­aceae family the flavor profiles are different. Black cardamon tastes smoky and camphor like while green cardamom is sweet and minty cool. Green cardamom is  grown in Kerala in the hilly regions and is the predominant spice in their sweets. While the green cardamon grows in alternative alignment on the rhizomes Black cardamom is seen in red drupes. The taste of fresh plucked black cardamom is unlike its dried version whereas fresh green cardamom tastes similar.

Black Cardamom has a singular medicinal property, it used for digestive disorders in Ayurved and Chinese traditional medicine.

Mirchi, Mensinkai, Milagai, Mulaku, Lonka, Chili

Byadgi

Spice no. 10

India is synonymous with Chili, was it always like this? Was our food always this spicy? I think credit to a lot of articles in the media and television shows we have got to know that Chili came to India only less than 500 yrs ago.

So colonization and spice trade completely got India addicted to Chilies so much so replacing the Miri and Pippli. Our heat giving Black pepper and Long pepper. How incredible is this replacement. The Portuguese are credited to bringing chilies to Goa and the cultivation and propagation has been so rapid that today India grows 25 types of Mirchi. If that is impressive you would guess how this easy growing crop has covered the entire world and there exists 4000 varieties of chilies today. 

Chili heat is due to Capsaicin a chemical that send the signal of pain to the brain it therefore is different from Piperine in Black pepper. The measure of the strength of Capsaicin in Chili is measured by dilution in sugar solution and the unit of measure is Scovilles or Scoville Heat Units. The higher the dilution higher the strength. India's Naga chilies from the North boasts the honor of being one of the hottest chilies in the world. There are competitions held in the North East to celebrate Naga chilis or Bhut Jhalokia as it is known locally. Here the participants rub the chilies on their eyes! Talk of subjecting oneself to torture.

Chili though became popular Southwards from Goa it travelled to the North of India only 250 years after with the Maratha Empire. No wonder the Northern food is milder than Southern food when it comes to chilies.

Chili gives color, heat and has a lot of benefits for blood circulation and as much as it gives pain it counters pain in the body hence its use as an analgesic. Infact in rural communities applying chili powder on bruises is a common first aid. 

The famous Chilies however are from Guntur, Byadgi, Kashmiri. Andhra Pradesh produces 75% of India's chilies, so the reputation of the hottest food in the state.

Kolis use 2-3 types of chilies in their masala and here you see the Byadgi and Kashmiri.

Kashmiri

My Father and The Mexican farmer

Baba and Me in the sugarcane field in 2013 on the highway in Kolhapur

Baba is aging now. He has been the leader of our joint family. We were a small family of three. My mother and me made so many compromises well I did not have a choice but my mother did. Yet she chose to take care of the family. In a joint family everyone makes sacrifices big or small.

Dad always wanted everyone to study well. He would come back from work and teach us. He was working 3 jobs at his peak yet he made time to sit with us to study. There were 8 children in the family. What made him choose to do this? Parenting is such a thankless job. Only when you become parents you learn or do you?

The reason I put a pic of us in the field is because the Mexican corn farmer's story is playing on my mind. The story goes that this particular farmer grew the best corn. So several researchers were curious to know his secret. He divulged it after probing much and it was simple, sharing his seeds was his secret. Since corn requires cross pollination to give a good harvest and best quality it is a must that the pollen should be good. So for miles he shared his seed with other farmers whose seed wasn't of high quality. That ensured that his corn was the best. I see my Dad as that farmer. He shared his resources, effort and knowledge with everyone. Hoping that the pollination was good. When some one makes progress he is the happiest in the knowledge that now there is no dependency of the neighboring farmer for seed. They have their own seed. Flourish you all!

🙏 Gratitude 🙏

Cassia and Cinnamon, Dalchini, Tuj, Karuvapatta

Spice no. 9

Let me start with Cassia because that is what we use in Indian cuisine. Dalchini which means a branch or twig from China. That is where the first uses of Cassia are seen. Cassia is used as a medicine for respiratory and circulatory and antibacterial effect. The flavour of the aldehydes in Cassia are sharp and pungent. This is the external bark of the Cinnamomum cassia. In the Indian cuisine meat and poultry dishes use Cassia. It is a garam spice so a component of garam masala. It helps make meat better for consumption as it is a blood thinner and lowers cholesterol. 

So since the Cassia belongs to genus Cinnamomum, it is confused with Cinnamon, the sweet spice that makes all baked goodies nice. However the use of sweet Cinnamon is mainly in the West. In India it is never used in sweets. This sweet Cinnamon is grown and harvested only in SriLanka. Those beautiful quills or sticks of Cinnamon perfectly cut into international standards of 4.2 inches long are painstakingly done by Cinnamon harvesters by hand. A horseshoe shaped blade is used to first scrape the hard exo bark and then get to the smooth layers of bark which is hand quilled and dried. Due to this process the Ceylon Cinnamon in much more expensive than the Cassia that Indians are used to. However for all commercial bakeries they use Cassia. Indonesia is also a producer of cassia cultivars.

So there now you know that Dalchini is not Cinnamon.

Dhana, Coriander

Spice no. 8

What you see here in the picture looks like a seed that we call Dhana or Coriander. That however is a fruit and almost always mistaken to be the seed. I learnt this when I started growing Coriander in my Window box. The first time they did not sprout inspite of soaking them overnight. On research and talking to my agriculturist friend Nilesh Malekar I learnt that the seed is inside the hard ovoid fruit. So he told me to use a rolling pin to lightly crush the fruits and bare the seeds inside to aid germination. This makes us realize the effort in propogation of this plant that we love so much across India. 

Dhana is grown majorly in two states in India one is Rajasthan and the other MP. However Dhana is not a dessert crop. It needs a well hydrated soil but nevertheless is intense in this dessert land like no where. While Dhana is used widely in the Northern and Southern states it is agreed that everyone like a bite of  dhana in their bhajias and kababs but in curries we love the mellow woody fragrance from the powder. Fresh ground is always better. 

While the seeds are so popular nothing beats like hara dhaniya showered over everything in our Indian cuisine. Our sole pan Indian garnish! The leaves have that loving aroma but actually the aroma intensifies in the stem and roots. While in India we don't see much of the root being used. I was surprised to see it used in Thai cuisine. 

When I have tourists who come for my cooking sessions. Most declare they hate Coriander leaves even before they reach my home. They complain about the soapy taste blame it on their extra gene that is sensitive to aldehydes. However I trick them and show them how the cilantro that they desist when added in the tadka can flavor the dish so subtly. 

Our Indian cooking is truly alchemy. We use spices to give heat and then we use coriander to reduce that heat. Coriander soaked in water is a digestive. In pickles dhana is the one that balances heat and also acts as preservative. The Egyptians knew this in 1500 BCE but then this is one spice which finds presence is Greek history records as old as 7000 BCE. Coriander seeds are found across the world and it doe give a feeling that this grew really wild.

My favorite uses of Coriander are rough crushed that lends beautiful aroma to the dish while the powder gives body to curries and sambar. Cilantro is Spanish word but the Portuguese are the bigger user of it after India.

The most unique usage of Dhana is its dal as a mouth freshner and we must thank Gujarat for processing it and making it popular.

Jaiphal-Javitri, Nutmeg-Mace

Spice no. 7

Jaiphal-Javitri, Nutmeg-Mace these are the twin spices obtained from the same tree. The story of Nutmeg and Mace is fascinating. It was available wild only in Banda Islands for centuries. The fragrance of which first attracted seafaring traders. First Indian and then Arabs and finally the Europeans. The Dutch controlled it for a long time. When there is control then there is unnatural prevention methods of propagation but nature rebels and birds carried the seeds of the nutmeg to other islands. India was among the early cultivators. Since it came via Javanese traders it got the name Javitri for mace.

The Nutmeg that we know is the seed. The mace is that network like aril covering the seed. Good quality nutmeg when cracked is red and on drying the color fades to a light orange if its yellow it has lost most of its volatile oils. The nutmeg seed is similar to a bettlenut with light and dark network of veins. The darker veins are the ones laden with essential oil. Commonly nutmeg is used by grating the seed and using the powder to flavor meat and fish. Kolis don't use nutmeg in their masala but use mace. Yes we are smart as mace is milder and cheaper yet has the same properties. Mild usage is key in the case of nutmeg and mace as it is a heat producing or garam spice. Hence you will find it prefered to be spinkled over shrikhand. So it does not cause mucous in the body. The Europeans use it in their soups and sweets too. Excessive use of Nutmeg and mace has psychotropic effect. Maharashtriya people enjoy their milky coffee with a sprinkle of jaiphal. Wonder if it perks up or causes a daze.

Connecticut has the moniker of the nutmeg state since there was rampant creation of fake nutmeg from wood which became a popular term for fraudsters to be called the wooden nutmeg.

The semi hard pulpy fruit of the nutmeg is used to make jam however that is a recent development.

Grenada is another place where nutmeg and mace is grown on large scale and gets a place of pride on their flag.

Badishep, Saunf, Sombu, Variyali, Panmohuri, Fennel

Spice no. 6

Badishep or Saunf is a fragrant spice. We love to eat it as a mouth freshener. Commonly confused to be a seed when it is actually a fruit. Fronds of Fennel are sold in the market and near schools. I am sure many of us have memories of chomping on them while in school.

Fennel as a spice is used for its aroma, flavour and ayurvedic properties. India is the largest producer of fennel and also a big user. It is used both in savory and sweet preparations. Kashmiri Pandit cooking stands out for its indispensable use of fennel. In Koli cuisine we use fennel in our meat dishes a little more than fish recipes. Kolis believe that fennel makes a dish aromatic but it does not preserve that well. The volatile phenols are what give it flavors like licorice, mint, etc. In Ayurved Fennel is considered cooling on the body. Its use as a breath freshner is not just cosmetic, it also works as a carminative and purgative. Hence fennel is chewed on after a meal. It is added in paan as one of the many ingredients. Fennel is used in pickles however this must be purely as an aromatic and antidote for chili used as there is no mention of it as a preservative. A tissane is made to treat the gut and we know its use in gripe water for colic in babies.

Fresh fennel fruits are a delight but even its spiky looking green leaves are used in parts that grow it. Fennel bulbs are use in European countries as a crunchy vegetable. 

It is grown in Southern Europe and Asia. India grows 60% of the worlds fennel.

Next time you eat a Malpua find the fennel in it and feel proud of India.

Blessed With A Brother

This meal was cooked for Vijay Bhau and Mangala Vahini in gratitude for all that they do for me.

I don't think I have mentioned this here before I am blessed with a brother not of blood but love that has grown over 45 years. Vijay bhau came to our home when I was a toddler. He was my family friend's son and he was brought to Mumbai to continue his studies after his Std. X.

As a kid I was very mischievous so he was my punching bag. He was my protector outside the home and also who made me tough unbeknownst. I played with his group of friends, I learnt never to take it lying. He used to come to school to pick me up and I wouldn't budge until he bought me an icecream from Yankee Doodles. 

My Aai loved him a lot and so did he, he called her Kaki. He was the obedient son and I the difficult one. He helped my mother in every chore. My mother taught him everything from making chapati to cleaning the home to shopping for vegetables and even haggling with the bhaajiwalas. She always gave his example to me that he was so good at all the chores while I refused to learn these things as a kid.

His life has been challenging but he did not break. He went through everything like a warrior. His wife and our Mangala Vahini has supported him quietly and like a strong pillar. He has taken care of his blood family consisting of 2 brothers and 2 sisters. Educating his younger brother and getting his sister married. One of his sister was a heart patient who he took care of till she was alive. He has made sacrifices for the other brother that he should be indebted to all his life. However life always throws a googly people for whom you sacrifice the most are the most ungrateful ones.

He suffered ill health few years ago and I feared if that would have a long lasting impact on his life. I am glad that he is back to his energetic self again. Last week he and Mangala Vahini spent time with me, it definitely made me happy. Both Vijay bhau and Mangala Vahini are my rocks. They are the ones who rush to be my side and I don't even need to call out to them. I count my blessing and pray to God may this bond grow ever sweeter 🙏

Miri, Pepper, Kali Mirch, Milagu, Kurumulagu

Spice no. 5

The round shriveled skin globular fruit of Piper nigrum. That is what we know in the form of black pepper. Pepper climbers are a common sight in Kerala and Karnataka. Native to Bharat. Find mention in history since 2000 BCE. The lost ancient port city of Muziris in Kerala was known for trade of kala sona.

Pepper is indispensable in our masalas especially the garam masala. It gives heat and Ayurved employs it exactly for it. In all ailments caused by cold the antidote is pepper. It is a spice used in Indian cooking and trading made it a fashionable seasoning world wide so much so the display of pepper on a well kept dinning table is a must today. Pepper was traded like gold in the past. The earliest application of pepper is preservation and so pepper was found as an essential ingredient for Mummification. Ramesses II nose was found stuffed with pepper. I would have wondered if that was death by pepper if not for the preservative properties.

Pepper vines a co-crop with coffee in Coorg

Pepper is classified into 3 types, black pepper which is ripe pepper that is dried either after boiling or without. The Green pepper is not cooked but directly dried and it is plucked at raw stage before it turns green. White pepper is the seed of pepper fruit. Since this is processed to discard the pericarp and retain only the seed it is milder in taste.

Fresh green pepper is pickled in brine. To be enjoyed as a condiment in a Thali meal. Black pepper received place of pride in Pepper Rasam, pepper idli, pepper chicken in Kerala and pepper laced sev and Khari puris. Pepper caught the fascination of the Romans and trade with India flourished. Pepper became currency and was even demanded as ransom by Alaric, king of the Visigoths. He included 3,000 pounds of pepper as part of the ransom he demanded from Rome when he besieged the city in fifth century.

Pepper has been consumed internally as well as an application on the skin to heal inflammations of skin, joints and even to reduce stomach aches. Internally for cold, cough, constipation, blood circulation and toothache etc.

Pepper being expensive is adulterated with papaya seeds as they look similar. Good pepper will give a bite well pressed under the teeth. So watch what you are buying.

Once upon a time Kerala solely was the largest exporter of pepper in the world however Vietnam captured the position by increasing production of white pepper which is much more in the demand in the world.

Rai, Mohri, Sarson, Sorshe, Sasave, Mustard

Spice no. 4

Mustard we know it as the tiny seeds in the phodni or tadka without which our food is incomplete. It is loved right across India, In the South that extra tadka is the highlight of chutneys and everything else. Bengal and North East's most beloved spice. They cannot function without it, the shorshe bata is a must in fish preparation and the oil has to be Mustard. I  myself being Maharshtriya love my groundnut oil and my palate required a lot of maturing before I learn to appreciate mustard oil. That too thru Kashmiri cooking. I learnt that smoking the oil reduced its punjency and brought out the flavours beautifully when I learnt to make Taher from Anita Tikoo. Then a conversation I recollect with the food writer Marryam Reshi who is married to a Kashmiri that for all their love for Mustard oil but they had very little to no love for the mustard seeds. She even goes to say in her book, The Flavour of Spice that Kashmiris don't use even a spoonful of Mustard in the whole year!

I was in Hampi when I heard the guide tell about the King's Ganesh called Kadle kalu Ganesha and the common man's Ganesh called sasave kalu Ganesha. Such a vivid comparison. Mustard has always been the representation of tiny. Tiny but powerful. Gujaratis befriended it. They use so much besan in cooking as thickner and as a major ingredient for the farsan that Ayurvedic balance is a must with a tadka of rai. Rai is potent gas shooter. It makes everything easy to digest. 

While in Bangalore I met families from the Vidarbh of Maharashtra that made koshimbir with pounded mustard in dahi. A Mumbaikar rarely gets an insight into remote regional Maharashtriya cuisine. So this came as a surprise. Then another of my favorite use of Mustard is in the Sasam from the coasts of Goa and Karnataka. A paste of mustard, coconut and red chilies is mixed with fresh sweet n sour cut fruits like mango, pinapple and grapes and eaten as a palate changer. The same or similar paste is cooked with raw mango to make a curry called sasav. That is true dedication to a spice, when the dish itself is called by its local name.

You can tell a guy is from the North Indian state when his deo is overpowered by the smell of sarson Ka tel. Jokes apart mustard oil is considered a garami wala oil and best for massage in winter. Alleviates aches n pains. 

I stock many different oils in my pantry and one day my friends came to stay over unplanned and my Friends husband was thrilled to have a masoor dal, rice and aloo shedho with a dash of mustard oil on it just out of the blue cooked by me. I need not say he is a bengali. Yes and it surprised me that they had a tradition of eating raw oil too like Maharashtriya enjoy their peanut oil on certain dishes like ukad and chutneys but that is for another story.

Among Kolis we don't use Rai in tadka but it is part of our masala. My favourite is a Khamanga green chili, hing - Mohri Phodni chi sukki batata bhaaji. I could eat it as a snack. You learnt a new word for mustard here.

In Maharshtra we also use Mustard paste to apply on the belly button of a baby with colic as you cannot feed the mustard to the baby and it works like magic. Talking about magic, mustard seeds along with salt and alum or phatkiri is held in the palm of the hand and waved across a person who has travelled or has had an exposure to evil eye and dropped in the hot embers of the chulha. It removes the evil eye is the belief. However its is nothing but aroma therapy at work. The mustard releases the pungent oil and lifts the mood. That's what makes babies smell good after this Olavni of mustard seeds and salt and phatkiri.

While many times we have learnt that a certain spice travelled from across the world and came to India Mustard is home grown and it is native plant across the world so one less dispute for the World. So there is English Mustard, Dijon and far Mexico too. I wonder if our Sarso da saag loving Punjabis were attracted to Canada because it is the largest producer of Mustard or did the Punjabis make it the largest producer of Mustard?

Diwali 2020 in the midst of Covid-19

Back to this gorgeous view that I am blessed with. 

We had a fantabulous Diwali, a staycation at Powai Lake. The videos will come up on TalkativeAnjali soon.

This morning breakfast was homemade Diwali faral brought over by Mangala Vahini, Vijay bhau, Sujal and my DIL Dipti. I did not make any faral. So this was enjoyed even more. 

A generous box filled with her usual repertoire and some new additions. I also noticed the change in taste so I am thinking it is Dipti's hand work. Loved the Phodni in the Chivda, Masta Khamanga. The Karanji was delicate and filled well. My Karanji cover is always a thick one so love Vahini's. The Khari puri is a new addition and so is the barik shev. Her besan ladoo are always beautifully roasted brown. The jaad shev her usual. I noted the shankarpali had a whiff of vanilla essence. Who dun it? Vijay bhau always helps with faral making never seen Sujal do it. He must have done the shopping for the ingredients I guess. Enjoyed everything a lot! 

Thank you for coming over and bringing along Ankita and Akshada. 

Dinner started with 3 types of icecreams as soon as they arrived. Orange Apricot, Pineapple cranberry and Pink Guava with salt n chili sprinkle. I was still rolling out Ghadichi Poli then. 

Rest of the menu went like this Ghadichi Poli with matar paneer because Sujal loves it, basmati rice with Masoor aamti made in coconut milk. Bengali tomato chutney I had saved for them to taste and take away too. Akhrod halwa that we got from the hotel as a send off since we had loved it. A jugful of mattha to close the meal.

After coming back home from the staycation I quickly Swiggyed to replenish my pantry and fridge. Cooked the dinner just in time of their arrival. My dinners are always help yourselves ones.

Though a brief evening it did feel like a Diwali dinner because when together we are loud n cheery 😁

Cooking and Feeding With LOVE

It is such a joy to cook and feed. Right from when I turned adult I have been doing it. If anyone cooks for me a decent meal I consider it an act of true love. There are hundreds of eateries from where one can order and these days we have a good spending capacity. However that is not the same kind of love as when some one gets into the kitchen to cook up a meal for you. The taste may not be good but what is important is you took the trouble.

When I was in college many times I would be famished in the evenings when I would be back home. So I would make snacks for myself and in a joint family one never ate alone so I made more for anyone who would like it. There was one cousin who did not care for anyone and always had a twisted point of view so she said I cooked because I wanted to eat! 

Many decades later I reflect on it. Words don't hurt so much anymore. If I did not like cooking and feeding this blog would not have existed. All that I do in the field of food wouldn't have brought me to where I am.

The Community food fridge has provided me an opportunity to cook and feed people anonymously. I try to use the best quality ingredients and make it tasty so when some one eats it they should feel satiated. After all Shree Gondavalekar Maharaj has said that it is the only desire that can be fulfilled as once your stomach is full you don't desire more. What follows is Trupti.

Jeera, Jīrige. Jīlakarra, Cumin

Spice no. 3

Jeera was once upon a time a prized spice. You guessed it right as it wasn't grown widely in Bharat. It was grown mainly in Egypt and the Middle East.

It belongs to the Parsley family and the leaves look like Shepu bhaaji. The Jeera or Cumin we know has a strong warming flavour. If not used carefully it overpowers all other flavours in a dish. It is one of those spices that get a special place because of this bossy flavour in dishes dedicated to showcase it. Like the Jeera rice, Jal Jeera, Jeera aloo etc. Interestingly Jeera is not predominantly native and was very expensive in the past centuries as it was traded in India by the Arabs. Yet jeera was used in fasting recipes. Fasting recipes as you know uses foods n spices which are not eaten everyday. This is to be able to get a shot of new nutrients and a break from the usual grains. Hence began the use of jeera in the fasting recipes. It was a show of luxury too. The fasting recipes did not allow use of mustard seeds which were used everyday and that gap was happily filled by cumin. Plus a little of it made the dish fragrant and warm. 

Believe it or not cumin was used as a preservative not just for food but also dead bodies in Egypt. It was one of the important spices used in the mummification process. This spice later travelled to different continents and finds big use in Latin America. The Orient uses cumin in a lot of its dishes and medicines too. India and China grow 70% of world's cumin and use 90% of it. 

In India cumin finds big use in home remedies for the gut. There is a whole range of jal jeera, Kashyam and rasam where Jeera in the hero. It has been incorporated into the tadka and has become common place. Jeera is one of the 5 spices in panch phodon too.

How can we forget our bhuna jeera that is sprinkled on chaats. However that is a traditional thing to do in the Middle East, it is placed on the table just like salt and pepper for all to help themselves to.

Mint Lounge: A savoury note to a sweet Diwali

My quote in today's newspaper and @livemintlounge where I talk about the balance of sweet n savory in our Maharashtriya Diwali Faral. 

Thanks @poojabd @prestaurants_ for reaching out to me. Thanks @avantikabhuyan for quoting me.

Read it here.

https://lifestyle.livemint.com/food/discover/a-savoury-note-to-a-sweet-diwali-111604670546924.html

Halad, Haldi, Haldar, Manjal, Haridra, Turmeric

Spice No.2

Haridra in Sanskrit more commonly Halad, Haldi, Haldar, Manjal. Native to Bharat and most species of Turmeric exsist in the sub-continent. It is a rhizome and not a root which is used fresh or dried and powdered. Turmeric has always been the most accessible spice to everyone in Bharat. It was grown in the backyard of every home through ages. While it was used as spice in food it had great importance in Ayurved too. A lep of turmeric and phatkiri (alum) is the most effective for bruises and cuts. Turmeric being antibacterial worked well to preserve food, heal the gut and any inflammation, whether internal or external. Besides it made the food appealing with the bright yellow color. The fresh turmeric is sliced and made into a seasonal pickle with a squeeze of lime n salt and some green chilies for heat. If you are from the Kokan you are familiar with turmeric leaves used in en-papillote fashion to steam rice and jaggery sweets and fish too. This common usage gave it important place in worship and lifecycle celebrations. 

We know the beauty routines of Haldi chandan uttan or packs of Turmeric and sandalwood which were of daily use. It is well in practice that a Hindu is given haldi treatment twice in a lifetime at the time of wedding and on death. In worship Haridra - Kumkumam (which is made from turmeric) were indispensable. Many are aware about Holi as the festival of color. In Maharashtra we have other festivals of color called Champa Shashti when Khandoba is worshipped and Turmeric is showered by devotees. The turmeric represents gold. It is also showered as a healing medicine on Khandoba as a celebration of his victory after killing the demons Mani-Malla. Another is Somvati Amavasya when devotees celebrate the wedding ritual of Khandoba with Mhalsa by showering turmeric.

The US Patent and Trademark Office had granted a patent to two persons of Indian origin. However CSIR fought the legal battle to revoke it. The usage of turmeric in our food and its application in wound healing has been used through centuries and it is native to India so it lacked the novelty factor for patenting. This was a big victory for India.

There is documented evidence that the first curry had fresh Turmeric in it. We know of the trends that swept the western world with sudden wave of Turmeric latte which is our ubiquitous Haldi doodh that grandmother's gave us when our throats were itchy with cough n cold. Amul has canned it for the young generation to make it Kool. One brand even has an turmeric icecream!

You are on a #MasalaTrail with Anjali Koli. See you in the next post.

Tirphal

Spice No.1 

Starting this Masala trail with my favorite spice Mullilam, Tilfda, Kamte Kai, Jummina Kayi, Teppal, Tippal, Kaatmurikku, Chirphal, Tirphal. Many names in this multilinguistic Bharat. Mind you Tirphal is not your Triphala, while one is a coveted spice the other is a laxative. 

It gets its name from the tri-lobed pericarp or outer part of the berry. Some of you guessed correctly it does look like Sichuan pepper not only that it looks like the Japanese or Korean pepper too. That is because they are the same genus Zanthoxylum botanically. However Tirphal is distinctive species rhetsa.

In the west coast we discovered that seafood paired with this pretty native spice like long lasting lovers. The spice tingles the tongue as it hits it, causing numbing and works magic with protein and fat from seafood. While the Kokani people use it whole in their preparations Kolis use it in their dry ground masala as one of the main ingredients. You will be surprised to know that the local anesthetic Sanshool is derived from this spice. 

How to distinguish Tirphal from Sichuan pepper? Tirphal is brown or black larger in size compared to Sichuan which is reddish and smaller.

I am sure you are already bowing to our ancestors for their knowledge of ayurved, food and the application of it in our lives. How deep is our heritage. Keep following!

Masala Trail

जेणू काम तेच करे! One who has skill only that person is right to do it. I believe in this almost religiously. Masala making is an art equivalent to perfumery. I can very well bring down cost by making it locally. However I don't do it. I have several teams that specialise in their community specific masala and I get them made in those geographies by the experts of years. 

There are several facets to Masala making
1. Quality of spices 
2. Cleaning 
3. Treatment 
4. Proportions 
5. Method of grinding 
6. Sieving 
7. Preservation 

Recipe of masalas vary as per the taste of the family, it is a lot to do with class and financial status understandbly. Spices are expensive after all. A family of lower status uses more chili as a little goes a long way. A better off family uses more aromatics. So even if you find many versions of my masalas in the Market know they are not the same. 

In Koli we say नाखवा चे घरचं खपनारणीचे घरच्याला कसं ऐकेल? To translate. How can there be competition between what is from a Nakhwa's home and his labourer's home?

Disparity is real in life. Sorry I had to use this example to explain quality. 

P. S. May be the labourer saying, Nakhwa's food doesn't have the heat does justice. 😂😂

Community Food Fridge at DP's Restaurant Opp. Ruia College

Mark this location of Community Food Fridge at DP's restaurant opp. Ruia College, Dadar.

Now that you know do fill it up with food, leftovers from parties and celebration is also good. This feeds anyone who is hungry. There are many who have lost jobs and on the streets. This fridge gives them dignity by allowing them to take as much as they need. I had gone to see it since I knew it is a new installation. Saw it empty so kept few small bottles of Maaza and Minute maid the first day. I cooked Tomato rice and sheera on Vijayadashmi and kept in the fridge. On the way handed out to a couple of people as the food was still warm. It's a joy to see happy faces enjoy your cooking!

Please spread the word far and wide.

Bangali Tomato Chaatni

Ever since I discovered Bong Eats website and Youtube channel I have been smitten. Love watching them cook and listening to the earthy music. There are only a few things that I can make from their channel though as I am vegetarian. So I made their Bengali Tomato Chutney and Khichuri with papor to go along.

I adjusted the recipe to my pantry while I kept the essence intact. I used dried figs to replace dates as that is what I had on hand and used coarse red chili powder instead of whole red chili since I did not have any. Yet another change is I used lime juice instead of citric acid, natural is always better. It gives nice thickening and tartness required in this chutney. I skipped cashews because we use cashews so commonly in everything I am tired of them and don't like them in my chutney. So actually this Chaatni as the Bangali call it is now my own recipe. So here are the ingredients.

INGREDIENTS

500 g tomatoes

40 g pitted dates 

(I used dried figs)

80 g aam shotto (mango pulp candy) / aam papad 

40 g raisins

400 g sugar 

(Reduce to half next time to let the tomatoes shine)

6 g salt

2 g turmeric

20 g mustard oil

1 pc dried red chilli 

(I used 1/2 teaspoon Kutti lal mirch)

½ tsp panch phoron

½ tsp citric acid

(I use juice of 1/2 lime)

So first chop the tomatoes. Keep non-reactive material kadhai on the fire. Heat the mustard oil to smoking. Add in the panch phoron and let it release fragrance. Tip in the chopped tomatoes. Follow in with turmeric, salt and now add the red chili powder. Cook until soft and mushy. If using citric acid add at this time but if using lime juice add after complete cooking at the end after putting off the heat.

Now is the time to add sugar after the tomato is a complete mush as sugar will arrest further cooking and create a syrup. Chop the dried figs and separate out layers of aam papad (Just my thing). Once the syrup looks deep red add the dried fruits like raisins, dates/ figs and aam shotto/ aam papad. Mix well. Let it simmer till its not too thin n watery but just slightly thick and pourable.

Like they suggest remove to a clean dry jar and store in the fridge. Stays good for 2 months, that's what they said. I am sure mine will be licked up clean before that. 

This chutney is so lovely and crowd pleasing I am going to make bottles of these as giveaways soon.

Also how could I not make Khichuri to go with it. Yet again I followed their Bhoger Khichuri recipe but I used Masoor dal instead. My friend Shaswati pointed out that traditionally masoor is marked as non veg so not used in Bhog I suppose. Bichari masoor why is it red? green would have made it acceptable.  We LOLed together.

This meal was enjoyed thoroughly. Bangalis eat meals in courses unlike us Maharashtriya, we dip our fingers into multiple vatis in a Taat. This chaatni is their concluding course and not a dip or tondi lavna. More like an digestive I guess due to tartness and sweetness. 

I loved eating the gelatanious aam shotto from this chutney the most! 

Navratri and Navrang

Is it strange coincidence or serendipity, that I have Rainbow Swiss chard at home right now. We Indians find the divine and its actions in everything! 

So here is my Navratri and Navrang.

 

What do you do with such pretty colorful produce? If you are like me you think they are a set of color pencils and you play with it but in a different way. Photography your medium. It is Rainbow Swiss Chard morning here.

Navrang means new color and also 9 colors. This season adds all that to our life as the monsoon is ending. Everything is lush green and flowers are blooming. In nature usually bright colors are poisonous but not in Rainbow Swiss chard. Now that I have eaten it I know. He he and you can eat it safely too. So here is to busting that myth.

Things I plan to do with it

1. Salad with the torn leaves and grated coconut.

2. Crudités with labneh

3. A cheesy tart

I want the colors to shine.

Happy Navrangi Navratri to you all and may the mother bless us!

A Spiritual Sunday

Today after a long time I felt really happy from within. I woke up before dawn and that is unusual for me. After which I brushed my teeth and did my 45mins walk inside the home. I have been doing this since lockdown started. It has helped me stay fit. My usual habit is to chant while walking. After the walk I stood in the balcony to enjoy the first rays of the sun and the blue hour until the streetlights went off. I chanted Gayatri mantra 3 times followed by Maha Mrityunjay mantra 5 times. The sprays of rain coming through the side windows of the balcony cooled my skin. After long time I had risen from the hopelessness I had felt in the past few weeks.

Blogger buddy a cook @ heart suggested I get back to music. Music happens when the mood is right. That was today. I got back to music 2 years after Arvi. Even after our marriage music was only light songs I never really sang my Hindustani classical raag. This morning I did a good 30 to 40 mins practice. I need to brush up but felt good to get back. Singing Itan Na Joban par maan na kariye, Dariye prabhu so aaj aali, Jo koi aave apne dhingwa, Taa so garab na keejiye, Sadarang yaha reet mane. The amazing thing is if one does riyaz the music stays with you through the day. Our culture our music everything is so science based. I want to learn everything I missed learning about it in my convent education. I want to fill up that hollow.

Today is Day #198 of self lockdown. Both Dad and me do not go out unnecessarily. There is no point in being foolhardy. The mind is an amazing thing it finds ways to be happy in the given situation. Amidst the physical restrainment we still count our blessings.

Rashne Roj, 2nd Anniversary

Darling Arvi you are missed everyday.
Thank you for loving me the way you did.

💕

Happy Birthday Darling Arvi! 53yrs

Arvi at his most favorite place at Table land, Panchgani

Dear Arvi

I am writing this note to you like you always did for me. You would have completed 53 yrs today. I pray for the peace of your soul and happiness always. You told me so many things that filled me with love and happiness. You made it a point to let me know how much you loved me and what was my value in your life. You promised we will celebrate 25 years of togetherness. We celebrated both our birthdays as a couple in true Parsi tradition. So until we are united again, Happy birthday darling Arvi! 

💞😘🌹🌸

Your favorite nougat cake

Love from your Peggy dikri, Peggy darling